Who grows up living in Noosa and doesn't properly learn to surf before the age of 21??? Me unfortunately, and I now think Im crazy for wasting all this time! I never really got peoples addiction to it, but after learning today- im definitely starting to understand.
We hired a longboard (it was massive, as you can see- I could barely fit my arm around it & was not exactly a graceful walk to the water- humbling!!!)
I practised for 3 and a half hours and I LOVED it!!!
I could only stand up on my knees at the beginning but by the end was standing up and catching waves in.
Even had an exciting little moment where I was able to turn around and wave and do a bit of an excited dance as I was surfing in. Show off, I know.
It was just so exciting and fun to learn something new- thats what I want this trip to be all about.
My biggest struggle was actually paddling onto the wave- my poor tiny arm muscles didn't know what hit them! So I still kind of needed a bit of a push onto the waves....I'll get there!!
All I know now is, I want my own board! This trip just took on a whole new theme!!
Getting me out of byron is going to be tough.
Love xoxoxox